Exmoor National Park

Of the West Country's three great moors, Exmoor is unique in having a coastline. The moor's edge extends right to the cliffs and the little harbours along the coast were of vital importance from early times.

The Exmoor and North Devon area was recently voted the 2nd most scenic area in the UK (Collins Atlas). Another survey chose this area as one of 3 of the most tranquil areas in UK (CPRE).

Exmoor - has been a National Park for over 50 years. Straddling Somerset and North Devon its rich variety of scenery includes heather moorland, ancient oak woods, deep secluded valleys and a spectacular coastline. Its landscapes and seascapes are dotted with towns, villages, harbours and resorts full of character and charm, stretches of Exmoor are owned by the National Trust or protected as Nature Reserves.

Exmoor is not a wilderness: it has been largely fashioned by people. The historic environment is all around us and is the product of human interaction with the landscape: archaeological sites, historic buildings, settlements, fields, road systems, even Exmoor's moorlands and woodlands. It also comprises objects and artefacts, historical sources, documents and maps, and oral history.

The boundaries of Exmoor have been altered many times since it became a Royal Forest over a thousand years ago. Today the Exmoor National Park covers 265 square miles, from Combe Martin in Devon to Raleigh's Cross (Raleghs Cross) in Somerset. The region includes three types of landscape: coastal, pastoral moorland and heathland.

Exmoor National Park is situated in the counties of Devon and Somerset. Exeter is to the south and Taunton to the east. The park contains a variety of magnificent landscapes. Although it is one of the smaller National Parks (267 square miles) the central plateau of open moorland is remote and spacious.

To the north, the moorland terminates in towering cliffs above the Bristol Channel. Rocky headlands, steep wooded ravines, plunging waterfalls and jumbled heaps of fallen rock, make this an area of outstanding scenic beauty; it is defined as a Heritage Coast.

Inland, the grass moorland is surrounded by heather-clad rounded hills, mostly over 900 ft. Dunkery Beacon is the highest point in Exmoor (1704 ft). This high land catches clouds from the Atlantic, with rainfall up to 80 inches a year and forms a catchment area for numerous rivers and streams which flow rapidly to the north and more gently to the south. It is not surprising that the moor is named after its main river, the River Exe.

The moorland is dissected by steep wooded valleys called combes, formed by these fast running streams. To the east lie the cultivated Brendon Hills, heavily wooded in the north but with enclosed fields surrounded by banks and fine beech hedges to the south. This typical landscape extends right across the south western lower slopes of the moor. Here, there is some dairying, but Exmoor is farmed mainly with beef cattle and sheep.

This is a stunning area, with much to see and explore. A series of excellent walks and various events are planned for visitors to Exmoor National Park throughout the year.

Wild Exmoor ponies still graze here side by side with red deer, the largest of England's native animals.The lush green coombes, dominated by oak woods, are home to a variety of bird life, such as grey wagtails, kestrels, buzzards and ring ouzels.

The National Trust owns large portions of Exmoor, notably the Holnicote Estate, containing Dunkerry Beacon, the highest point in Exmoor. There are over 100 miles of walking paths within the vast (12, 500 acres) estate. The Trust publishes a leaflet detailing 14 walks around Dunkerry. Pretty villages dot the Park, such as Dunster and Selworthy, a favourite of postcard and calendar photographers.

Exmoor is also home to Lorna Doone, fictional heroine of Victorian author R.D.Blackmore. Blackmore's descriptions of the scenery are so precise that even today it is easy to recognise many of the sites described in his book. The village of Malmstead is a good jumping-off place for visiting "Doone country", and Oare contains the church where Blackmore had Lorna and hero John Ridd marry.

What you'll see:
Densely wooded valleys, heather-covered uplands, steep coombes, wild ponies and red deer, lovely villages.
Badgeworthy Water (Lorna Doone country)
Bronze Age barrows at The Chains (near Simonsbath)
Dunkerry Beacon (great views)
Dunster Castle
Holnicote

Contributed by:John Simmons

Exmoor National Park is a national park situated on the Bristol Channel coast of Devon and Somerset in South West England. The park is 693 km of hilly open moorland. Exmoor is one of the first British National Parks, designated in 1954, and is named after its main river, the River Exe.

THE EXMOOR NATIONAL PARK is situated in North Devon and West Somerset. It covers an area of 267 square miles. Exmoor has one of the finest stretches of unspoilt countryside in England, with wide expanses of wild heather moorland and deep wooded coombes of ancient oak forest and it boasts some of the highest cliffs in the country — an area of stunning landscapes and rare wildlife.

Exmoor National Park, designated in 1954, is situated in the northern part of Devon & West Somerset and covers an area of 267 sq. miles (692 sq. km) extending from the Brendon Hills in the east to Combe Martin in the west. Exmoor offers peaceful, open spaces, a wide variety of dramatic landscapes ranging from small patchworks of farms to open heather moorland, spectacular coast with the highest sea cliffs in England, clean air, glorious scenery and a friendly welcome. It has one of the finest stretches of unspoilt countryside in England. Natural woodland covers almost one tenth of the moor, mostly in the valleys. The Park is It is 30 miles north of Exeter and 13 miles west of Taunton.

Exmoor is one of the few truly wild and beautiful places left in England. The Exmoor National Park and its surrounding countryside, resorts and villages are set in one of the most beautiful parts of England's West Country. Straddling the border of Devon and Somerset with a magnificent coastline, it has the highest sea cliffs in the country, open moorland covered in purple heather and yellow gorse, steep-sided, beautiful wooded valleys of ancient oak forest with fast flowing meandering rivers and charming villages to explore. The tranquil wide open space have herds of wild red deer and Exmoor ponies. There are also diverse visitor attractions. As a National Park Exmoor has has retained a charm that gives you the oipportunity to see England in a tradtional light. Exmoor has over 600 miles of way-marked walks.

Exmoor is an upland area taking its name from the River Exe, It is a varied region of moorland, farmland, settlement and many wildlife habitats. The area with it's distinctive scenery of rounded hillsides and wooded combes has it's own unique identity.

Often described as one of England's best kept secrets the Exmoor National Park makes an excellent destination for a visit or holiday all year round.

For its size, Exmoor contains a huge variety of habitats and hence a great diversity of wildlife. It is an unusually high area for southern Britain, supporting both arctic and mountain varieties of plants and animals usually found further north and many less hardy species. In all, it is a naturalist's paradise.

What has the area to offer?

In every season Exmoor really has something to offer. Once visited it is a place you will not forget and many visitors return time and time again. People often say that Exmoor is ideal to get away from the stress of modern living.

Did you know?

Exmoor was the setting for RD Blackmore's famous novel 'Lorna Doone'.

Further information is available from the five National Park Visitor Centres across Exmoor.

Two thirds of the park is in the County of Somerset and one third is in Devon. The landscape is described as 'semi-natural' as it has been influenced by human activity over thousands of years.

At the end of the Ice Age (10-12,000 years ago) the climate improved and vegetation began to grow. It is believed that 8,000 years ago the majority of Exmoor was continuous oak woodland. As man began to settle, the landscape changed as agricultural 'technology' and ways of life evolved. The result of this human interaction is the wonderful diversity and variety that is Exmoor today.

Exmoor offers something for people or all ages and interests. It is the perfect place for walking and horse riding holidays with over 680 miles (1,100 km) of footpaths, bridleways and other rights of way. There are excellent local facilities for both walkers and riders. There is also river, sea and reservoir fishing.

One of the most popular sights in Exmoor, is Tarr Steps, an ancient bridge crossing the River Barle . Other popular sights such as Dunkery Beacon and Dunster are all nearby.

Approximately 27% of the National Park is actually 'moorland'. The rest is mainly farmland. Both the heather and grass moors are internationally important for their wildlife and scenic beauty. High ground of this nature is unusual in southern England.

The Exmoor 'plateau' is an area of unglaciated upland (250-500m) approximately 200 million years old - some 180 million years older than the Alps in Europe. It is thought to rank among the oldest features on the Earths surface.

Exmoor's northern boundary (34 miles/54km) is the Bristol Channel and stretches from Combe Martin to Minehead. The cliffs along this coastline mainly face North or NE and are protected from the prevailing South Westerly winds. They are the highest cliffs in England (Great Hangman is the highest sheer cliff at 800ft/244m). The sheltered aspect has allowed the development of coastal woodland which is predominantly oak. The woods between The Foreland and Porlock represent the longest stretch of coastal woodland in England and Wales and run right down to the shore in many places. The rare Exmoor 'hogs-back' cliffs are dramatic and awe-inspiring. The Exmoor coast is one of the most unspoilt and best protected stretches of coastline in England and Wales.

Much of the high ground on Exmoor features steep, woodland covered valleys (called combes). Much of the woodland is ancient sessile oak. Birch, beech, ash, rowan, unique varieties of whitebeam and various 'thorns' also feature. Dotted across this wild, 'natural' place are the farmsteads, villages and hamlets where the people who have shaped Exmoor have lived and worked for generations.

It was the home of a legendary nomadic group of brigands called the Doones; Doone Valley became more famous after R. D. Blackmore incorporated the legend in his novel Lorna Doone.

Exmoor is home to 31 species of mammals, 243 species of birds, and 1,751 different types of insect.

Most of Exmoor - over 70% - is within Somerset, with the remainder inside Devon's boundary.

Counties covered: Somerset 71%, Devon 29%

Area: 69, 280 hectares/171, 189 acres/267 sq miles

Population: 1971 - 9, 455; 1981 - 9,994; 1991 - 10,494; 1993 - 11,200.

Main settlements: popn by parish (1991): Lynton and Lynmouth  - 1, 658; Dulverton - 1, 195; Porlock - 1, 332; Dunster 557.

geology - main rock types : Old and new red sandstones, Devonian slates, shales and limestone

Highest point: Dunkery Beacon 519 m (1, 704 ft)

Highest cliffs, (as in the Guinness Book of Records): Great Hangman 244 m (800 ft)

Length of coast: 55 kilometres (34 miles)

Length of main rivers from source to sea:

• Flowing to the English Channel - Exe 86 km (54 miles), Barle, via Exe: 86 km (54 miles)
• Flowing to the Atlantic - Bray, via Taw 62 km (39 miles), Mole, via Taw 62km (39 miles)
• Flowing to the Bristol Channel - East Lyn/Oare Water/Weir Water 16 km (10 miles), Washford River 14 km (9 miles), Avill 13 km (8 miles), Homer Water/Chetsford Water: 13 km (8 miles), Aller Brook 8 km (5 miles), Heddon 8 km (5 miles), West Lyn river 8 km (5 miles), Umber 5 km (3 miles)

The role of the Exmoor National Park Authority is:

• to conserve and enhance the natural beauty, wildlife and cultural heritage of Exmoor
• to promote opportunities for the understanding and enjoyment of the special qualities of Exmoor by the public

Whilst pursuing these aims the ENPA also has to consider the social and economic needs of the local community. If there is any conflict between the aims the conservation of the landscape must come first. The ENPA has to strike a balance, recognising that the local community relies to a large extent on visitors for its livelihood but at the same time making sure that recreational activities are appropriate to Exmoor and do not detract in any way from its special beauty or wild landscape. If there is an application for, say, a new car park or camp site or change of use of a barn into holiday accommodation the Planning Department of Exmoor National Park Authority becomes involved, but it is the National Park’s Education, recreation and Ranger services, with the help of the Field Services Team that are most concerned with visitors and their enjoyment of Exmoor.

Together they are responsible for:

• Visitor information centres at Dulverton, Dunster, County Gate, Lynmouth and Combe Martin
• Visitor facilities e.g. car parks, picnic sites and toilets
• Access - keeping over 1100 km (680 miles) of footpaths and bridleways open
• Repair of bridges, stiles and signposts
• Preparing publications to inform and advise
• Guided walks and talks
• Environmental Education service
• Volunteer groups
• Day-to-day contact with the public by the National Park Rangers, other staff and volunteers

In England there are twelve national parks, Exmoor being one of the smallest and thereby easily accessible to local residents and visitors.
About two-thirds of Exmoor National Park is in Somerset and one-third is in Devon. It stretches from Combe Martin in the west almost to Minehead in the east, some thirty miles of spectacular coastline backed by inland moorland and valleys (combes).

Much of it is farmed and sheep can be seen everywhere. It is noted for its deer and ponies, the Exmoor pony being a unique breed and very hardy. Ownership of the land is in the hands of many different individuals and organisations, notably the National Trust. Within the Park are many places of interest such as the Valley of Rocks with its unique herd of goats, the Heddon Valley, Tarr Steps (an ancient Clapper Bridge), Heddon's Mouth and Landacre Bridge. R.D. Blackmore lived for a time in the Lynton and Lynmouth area where he heard tales of the adventures of the Doones and the Ridds. Families with these names still live in the area. Based on these tales, he wrote the book "Lorna Doone". The action takes place in and around Malmesmead and Oare, not far from Lynmouth and less than an hour from Combe Martin.

The headquarters of the national park authority is at Dulverton, an attractive village in the south eastern corner of the Park.

Some dates that are key points in the history of Exmoor include:

• 6800 BC - human activity at this time as revealed through archeological evidence
• 4500 BC - farming started in Exmoor
• 2000 BC- Bronze age monuments
• 1000 BC- Iron age hill top settlements
• 43 AD - Romans activity
• 700- 900 AD Saxons took over
• 11th through 17th century Exmoor became a Royal Forest
• 1650 English Civil War and Exmoor sold to James Bovey
• 1818 the area was purchased by John knight
• 19th Century mining started
• 1897 The Lord of Fortescue built on Exmoor
• 1954 The National Park was formed
• 1991 Exmoor Park expanded
• 1993 Exmoor designated Environmentally Sensitive Area
  

See geology

See also:

Exmoor Society - www.exmoorsociety.org.uk

Explore England’s Past’ provides free access to 1000s of local history resources including images, transcribed wills and documents and town trails www.ExploreEnglandsPast.org.uk/Exmoor

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